I recently returned from a trip to the UAE, spending time in
both Abu Dhabi and Dubai. It was my
first time not only in that country but also in that part of the world. Before I go into some of the more
entertaining stories I will introduce the cities (or emirates) and
country.
The United Arab Emirates is a collection of seven different
emirates each governed by one person but all with the same national president. Early in the 1900’s the pearling industry thrived
but was basically eradicated during the two wars and the culture pearls of
Japan.
In the 1960’s is when the oil era began the UAE had long had
a close relationship with the United Kingdom.
Agreements were in place that no land would be released/sold to anyone
other than the British and no foreign relationships made without their consent. In exchange for this agreement the British offered
their military to defend the land and ports of the Sheikdoms (what would become
the UAE).
The seven sheikdoms plus Bahrain and Qatar were in
negotiations to combine into one country.
Bahrain and Qatar chose to be independent while the other areas joined
to become the UAE with Abu Dhabi as the capital.
The first UAE president Sheik Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan,
referred to as the ‘father’, died in 2004 and was succeeded by his son Sheik
Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan as the ruler of Abu Dhabi and, therefore, the
president of UAE. Sheikh Mohammed bin
Rashid Al Mouktoum is the current ruler of Dubai and prime minister of
UAE.
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Burj Khalifa |
Many highways and buildings in Dubai and Abu Dhabi are named
and created in honour of the rulers. The
Burj Khjalifa (Tallest building in the world)
was originally to be named Burj Dubai but after a lot of support was given by
the current UAE president the tower was renamed in his honour. In almost all, if not all, buildings and randomly
on street signs you will see large posters/pictures paying their respects to
each ruler.
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Fountain show from atop the tallest building in the world at ~830m |
Abu Dhabi is the financial center of the UAE and takes up
almost 90% of the total land of the country. Dubai is quite a bit smaller but
is regarded as the city to go to for entertainment. Land in general is very scarce, much of it
owned by the rulers and their sons. The
ruler of Abu Dhabi has 32 sons (from different wives) that each have their own
large piece of land with proper, ostentatious palaces. I asked a friend why some of the palaces or
pieces of land were larger than others if all 32 sons got a ‘piece of the pie’. The answer is that the son’s wealth depends
on whether his mother was from the UAE or of another nationality. The natural citizens receive the bigger piece
of said pie. Due to the lack of land
many construction projects have first created new land on the coast by dredging
the sand from the gulf. The more famous
ones being the Palm and ‘The World’ in Dubai but also major, less assuming
projects in Abu Dhabi.
Over the past couple decades there has been a significant
change in the cityscape of both Abu Dhabi and Dubai. The picture below shows a main street of
Dubai in the 90s and then again in 2003. Add another 9 years of non-stop construction on to that...
This all started a long time ago when the rulers came up
with the ‘2030 initiative’. This plan,
in conjunction with Qatar, was to make both countries in the list of top 10
places to live. There wasn’t a very
large population of Emiratis so to realize this vision the UAE decided to make
their country an open and welcoming place for foreigners. The current population of ~ 8 million people
is only about 15% Emirati. Foreigners
were enticed with above average compensation and a high-class lifestyle. They
understood that they would never be afforded the same luxuries as a native
citizen, including:
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They could never become citizens
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They would not receive free health care,
schooling and accommodations
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They would have to pay tax (zero tax for
Emiratis)
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Allowance towards cleaning staff and childcare
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Almost impossible to marry a citizen
So, in the end they would receive compensation but would not
be able to stay in the Emirates unless supported to work. If their work or contract ended they would be
expected to leave almost immediately. All
of these government sponsored programs are coming from oil so the next question
is…what happens when the oil is gone?
The answer is that the rulers, and government, obviously
realized this would happen someday so they made a plan to invest in only
foreign companies or countries with the objective to sustain themselves
financially for 50 years after the oil is gone.
What happens after that would be the next question….
All in all it’s a great country to visit and all your needs
are taken care of. It has a bit of an
extreme climate but it’s a nice change from the Russian winters. Since most of the people in the Emirates are
foreigners the common language ends up being English. It makes it very easy to get around as a
tourist and get what you need but the downside is being in a different country
but not getting a sense of its people, culture and history. At first view the cities seem very ‘perfect’. It’s unnaturally clean, artificially green
and everything in its place. You can see
the instant transition from the edge of the perfect cities to the bare desert.
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'grass' to desert transition |
Anyways, to finish this off it is a great place to visit and
if you can afford it an exciting and entertaining place to live.
Look into it if you get the chance.
Soon to come...my adventures in Dubai