Sunday 27 May 2012

Desert Safari


Much of my time spent in Dubai was filled with shopping and meeting some old friends, relaxing out by the pool but I did manage to see a few sights and experience some of the local attractions.  

As mentioned previously I went atop the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building, man-made structure and freestanding structure in the world.  I ascended to the 124th of the 140 floors in the building which stood at about 830m tall.  The elevator itself was considered the fastest in the world moving at 10m per second. 

The second thing I did was to sign up for the desert safari, a tourist trap I’m sure but, being from Canada, the desert is fairly new thing to me so I figured I should take it in anyways.  I guess I should be more understanding of the people who visit Canada or Russia and being so happy to see snow for the first time.
 
I was on my own for this trip so I booked this 5 hour desert safari hoping my natural people and social skills would allow me to meet a few people along the way.  There was a family of four that were booked on the same tour as me.  I realized very quickly when we got into the truck that they did not speak much English so I was accepting the fact that we weren’t going to have much conversation.
 
The ‘safari’ starts about 45 minutes out of town so we first drive along the highway to a small town where we wait for all the other trucks that will be in convoy with us.  In this area of the town the locals are expecting us and waiting to sell any and everything to us.  I wasn’t planning on purchasing anything but one of the vendors was selling ‘keffiyehs’ which are the male Arabic headdresses.  They were way overpriced but I went for it anyway and got him to take a photo as well. 
After this the mother of the family I was riding with came over and talked to me despite her not knowing much english, asked me where I was from and what my name was.  She told me they were from Iran and she was so excited to meet someone from Canada.  Immediately she got her son to take a picture of us.  She was very blunt when she looked around and said ‘David, you have no friends?’   no, no friends…travelling alone.  She insisted that for the rest of the day I was to join her and her family.  She then commented that she liked my keffiyeh and said I looked Palestinian.  

Palestinian look
While waiting for all the trucks to arrive we got the chance to rent quad bikes to ride around the small sand dunes.  After about 30 seconds of riding one of the owners flagged me over and told me I had to
1)      Slow down
2)      Stop doing jumps over the dunes
3)      Stop doing donuts in the sand

A few minutes later I needed another reminder.   I blame it on my time and influences in Grande Prairie.  

A view sitting on the Quad
View from the front seat
We had now started the 4x4 in the real dunes in a Ford Expedition style truck and they took us up, down and around the desert trying to get as close to tipping over as possible.  It was enjoyable but I think I would rather have done the driving myself.  The entertainment came from the Iranian family who were all screaming behind me.  The driver and I were enjoying this quite a bit and it gave him a bit more incentive to do a few extra tricks in the sand. The mother of the family was often yelling up to me ‘Daviiiid, Hoobie, Hoobie’ (phonetic spelling).   I had no idea what this meant for most of the ride and figured my best way to respond was to say ‘Hoobie’ back to her.  At the end of the trip the son finally decided to tell me that Hoobie was Farsi for ‘how are you?’  So for a few hours we had been in an endless loop of us asking how the other was doing with no real answer’. 
Stuck truck
At certain points on the trip we would stop for photos and to see the sunset over the desert.  The sand was very soft and warm and really a nice setting to see the sun go down.  The mother took a few more pictures of me and told me to do my Palestinian look for some of them.  While we were standing in the sun she said ‘Canada, cold?’ and did some shivering body language.  I said yes, it’s quite a bit cooler than this usually not taking the time and effort to properly explain that the summers can be very warm.  She then took concern and said ‘Daviiid, the sun…your skin’ and gave me a very worried look.  To calm her down I had to show her my sunscreen and assure her that I was well protected.  







 









 








To finish off the safari we met at a camp in the desert to dine on traditional (or so they said) Arabic food and took in a quick dancing show with a female belly dancer and some other guy dancing with a costume that lights up.  The belly dancer was playing to the crowd and trying to get people involved.  The Iranian mother was always pointing at me and telling the dancer to pick me but thankfully she wasn’t biting up until a point when she got the whole crowd to do some weird finger snapping that I’ve never seen before.  Her hawk-like sight saw me struggling and that’s when she pulled me on stage and got me to give my best belly dancing routine.  I had to lift my shirt do some stomach convulsions and shake my hips.  I’ve gone 29 years focusing on only moving my hips in the forward and backward direction, the sideways movement is not a strength.  There were no pictures but my biggest fan, the mother, loved the show.   

oh yeah, and there were camel rides. I prefer them to horses
Next up, skydiving.  










Monday 21 May 2012

UAE - intro


I recently returned from a trip to the UAE, spending time in both Abu Dhabi and Dubai.  It was my first time not only in that country but also in that part of the world.  Before I go into some of the more entertaining stories I will introduce the cities (or emirates) and country.  

The United Arab Emirates is a collection of seven different emirates each governed by one person but all with the same national president.  Early in the 1900’s the pearling industry thrived but was basically eradicated during the two wars and the culture pearls of Japan.  

In the 1960’s is when the oil era began the UAE had long had a close relationship with the United Kingdom.  Agreements were in place that no land would be released/sold to anyone other than the British and no foreign relationships made without their consent.  In exchange for this agreement the British offered their military to defend the land and ports of the Sheikdoms (what would become the UAE).  

The seven sheikdoms plus Bahrain and Qatar were in negotiations to combine into one country.  Bahrain and Qatar chose to be independent while the other areas joined to become the UAE with Abu Dhabi as the capital.  

The first UAE president Sheik Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, referred to as the ‘father’, died in 2004 and was succeeded by his son Sheik Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan as the ruler of Abu Dhabi and, therefore, the president of UAE.  Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Mouktoum is the current ruler of Dubai and prime minister of UAE.   

Burj Khalifa
Many highways and buildings in Dubai and Abu Dhabi are named and created in honour of the rulers.  The Burj Khjalifa  (Tallest building in the world) was originally to be named Burj Dubai but after a lot of support was given by the current UAE president the tower was renamed in his honour.  In almost all, if not all, buildings and randomly on street signs you will see large posters/pictures paying their respects to each ruler.  

Fountain show from atop the tallest building in the world at ~830m
Abu Dhabi is the financial center of the UAE and takes up almost 90% of the total land of the country. Dubai is quite a bit smaller but is regarded as the city to go to for entertainment.  Land in general is very scarce, much of it owned by the rulers and their sons.  The ruler of Abu Dhabi has 32 sons (from different wives) that each have their own large piece of land with proper, ostentatious palaces.  I asked a friend why some of the palaces or pieces of land were larger than others if all 32 sons got a ‘piece of the pie’.  The answer is that the son’s wealth depends on whether his mother was from the UAE or of another nationality.  The natural citizens receive the bigger piece of said pie.  Due to the lack of land many construction projects have first created new land on the coast by dredging the sand from the gulf.  The more famous ones being the Palm and ‘The World’ in Dubai but also major, less assuming projects in Abu Dhabi.  

Over the past couple decades there has been a significant change in the cityscape of both Abu Dhabi and Dubai.  The picture below shows a main street of Dubai in the 90s and then again in 2003. Add another 9 years of non-stop construction on to that...


   
This all started a long time ago when the rulers came up with the ‘2030 initiative’.  This plan, in conjunction with Qatar, was to make both countries in the list of top 10 places to live.  There wasn’t a very large population of Emiratis so to realize this vision the UAE decided to make their country an open and welcoming place for foreigners.  The current population of ~ 8 million people is only about 15% Emirati.  Foreigners were enticed with above average compensation and a high-class lifestyle.   They understood that they would never be afforded the same luxuries as a native citizen, including:

-          They could never become citizens
-          They would not receive free health care, schooling and accommodations
-          They would have to pay tax (zero tax for Emiratis)
-          Allowance towards cleaning staff and childcare
-          Almost impossible to marry a citizen

So, in the end they would receive compensation but would not be able to stay in the Emirates unless supported to work.  If their work or contract ended they would be expected to leave almost immediately.  All of these government sponsored programs are coming from oil so the next question is…what happens when the oil is gone?

The answer is that the rulers, and government, obviously realized this would happen someday so they made a plan to invest in only foreign companies or countries with the objective to sustain themselves financially for 50 years after the oil is gone.  What happens after that would be the next question….
All in all it’s a great country to visit and all your needs are taken care of.  It has a bit of an extreme climate but it’s a nice change from the Russian winters.  Since most of the people in the Emirates are foreigners the common language ends up being English.  It makes it very easy to get around as a tourist and get what you need but the downside is being in a different country but not getting a sense of its people, culture and history.  At first view the cities seem very ‘perfect’.  It’s unnaturally clean, artificially green and everything in its place.  You can see the instant transition from the edge of the perfect cities to the bare desert.



'grass' to desert transition

Anyways, to finish this off it is a great place to visit and if you can afford it an exciting and entertaining place to live.  Look into it if you get the chance.    

Soon to come...my adventures in Dubai